How to Fix a Leaky Symmons Shower Faucet? Do you know how to repair your Symmons shower faucet? Don’t call the plumber until you check this out! It’s so easy to fix and will save you money.
What I’m going to say serves a higher purpose. I’ve completed all of the work and am eager to tell you about it. You’re in excellent hands if you have a shower valve that looks like the one below and it leaks. I’m going to make a huge difference in your life.
Here’s the scenario: every now and then, you see a drop of water falling from your bathtub’s spout into your bathroom. You’ve seen it for years, but you’ve always assumed that if you just fastened the shower handle a little tighter than the last time you had a shower, everything would be OK. Then, of course, the next time you go to the bathroom, you see the dam tub is leaking again. You reach into the shower to tighten the handle once again and notice that the leak stops as you do so. As a result, you blame anyone you live with for not properly turning off the shower. It’s not your fault; it’s their fault.
But, really, you’re aware that your shower is leaking and that it has to be repaired. Are you just delaying like the rest of us?
Why Symmons shower faucets are leak?
A typical Symmons shower faucet will have between one and five valves in it. A leaky Symmons shower faucet can be caused by any of these valves, but most often it is the main valve that drips water constantly or after you have turned the water off. If this is the case, you’ll need to replace your Symmons shower faucet’s cartridge, which contains the valve stem and seals in one unit.
The average lifespan of a shower faucet is 15 years, but sometimes they leak sooner than that or break down completely. The first step in fixing your leaky Symmons shower faucet involves turning off the water supply to the faucet and draining the water out of the handle using an Allen wrench (or hex key). Next, you’ll need to remove the handle cover on the showerhead to get access to the set screw inside, which you’ll loosen with an Allen wrench or hex key.
Signs That You Have A Leaky Symmons Shower Faucet
If you hear water running in your bathroom after you’ve turned off your shower, then there may be a problem with your shower faucet. If you have high water bills or find yourself replacing your hot water heater more often than usual, then that could also be a sign of a leaky Symmons Shower Faucet. There are a few things you can do if a leaky shower faucet is causing excess bathroom moisture or if mold or mildew is growing in your bathroom. So you don’t have to hire an expensive plumber! Let’s take a look at how easy it is to do it yourself.
If there is any remaining water in your shower, turn off the faucet and remove it. Use an old rag or towel in order to ensure that you don’t drop anything into your faucet that could cause future problems. With your shower faucet off, tighten up all of its connections underneath the sink with a pair of pliers.
Why Do I Need To Repair My Symmons Tub Faucet?
While your shower or tub’s faucet may not seem important, it is a functional part of your bathtub. Not only does it control water temperature and flow, but it also helps prevent water damage. You can repair most issues with your tub or shower faucet on your own—you don’t need to call an expensive plumber every time something goes wrong.
Bathtub and shower faucets have valves that control water flow, mixing hot and cold water together. When one of these valves becomes clogged with mineral deposits, it can stop working correctly or become damaged. Mineral deposits can build up around the O-ring in the handle and cause leaks, but there are easy ways that you can clean it and save money. Save time and water, too, with a faucet that operates more efficiently.
The Tools Needed To Fix A Squeaky Tub Or Basin Faucet
The first thing you’ll need is a basin wrench. This will either be included with your basin wrench, or come with your new faucet. Simply screw the end of it into one of your faucet holes and turn until it stops turning, then unscrew and use it to remove your old faucet. You can also use pliers. However, if you are using pliers to do any tight turning or manipulating, you may end up scratching your beautiful new faucet! Try not to use them! The second tool you will need is some kind of basic Allen key set.
Now that you have your tools all set, it’s time to remove your old faucet. Turn off both of your water supplies—cold and hot—and make sure all the water has drained from your sink before you start unscrewing! In one of the holes, put your basin wrench or pliers (if you’re going to use pliers, wear an old cloth over them so as not to scratch the surfaces). With either your basin wrench or pliers screwed in place, turn them slowly counter-clockwise until you hear a small pop and feel some movement. This means that they are now free enough for you to remove them!
How To Remove And Replace A Symmons Tub or Basin Bathroom Faucet
If your bathtub or basin faucet is leaking, there are several ways you can remedy that: install a new bath faucet, replace just that part of the shower faucet (valve and cartridge), or remove and replace all of it. The right choice depends on how much time and money you want to spend.
A leaking bathtub or basin faucet is not only annoying and ugly, but it can lead to expensive water damage. Even if your faucet isn’t leaking now, it’s a good idea to learn how to repair it yourself in case you ever experience issues. Thankfully, it’s not as difficult as you might think. In most cases, all you need is basic hand-tool knowledge and household supplies available at any hardware store.
If you’re replacing an entire shower faucet, remove both sides of your existing faucet by unscrewing or unscrewing and removing any slip nuts (also called stop nuts) that hold them in place. In some cases, you might also need to cut thru any caulk and/or pop off an escutcheon with a screwdriver if it’s in your way. It’s best to follow the instructions that come with your new replacement faucet. If they aren’t included or are confusing, check videos on YouTube for installation instructions using parts similar to yours.
My personal experience to prevent leakage
This valve will be partly rebuilt today. I’ll walk you through every step of the way. I’ll provide you with component numbers and explain precisely why your valve is leaking. But, thanks to what I did, my shower is no longer leaking.
The actual issue with a work like this is that it’s impossible to know which replacement components to buy. Also, no one truly knows what their valve’s guts look like. Every site on the internet does a lousy job of describing what we’re up against.
Also, I located all of the necessary pieces on Amazon.com, so get your pencil out and start scribbling. To make your life simpler, I’ll compile a list of them below.
Symmons Shower Valve Replacement Part List
- Raven E-Z R1241 Wrench For Symmons Tool, 1/4 Inch – 3/4 Inch
- Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube
- Symmons Diverter Spindle Kit—TA-25A
- Kissler TA-4 55-0004 Symmons Valve Seat Set
- Symmons TA-9 Genuine Washer Repair Kit
- Stem Cartridge Spindle For Symmons TA-10 Temptrol
This is the stem cartridge spindle for a Symmons TA-10 Temptrol shower valve. We’ll add the component number to the list above since you’ll need one.
Taking off the shower handle and cover
The first thing you should do is remove the center cap of the handle with a small, ordinary screwdriver.
When you remove the cap, you will be able to see the screw that held the handle in place below.
After removing the screw, you should push the handle straight back, causing it to come off. If it didn’t come off, you may have grabbed the handle with a set of channel locks and wiggled it till it came off. After removing the handle and chrome collar, you follow the next step.
You removed the two machine screws that kept the lid in place using a Phillips head screwdriver.
Here’s how it appears without the cover:
Now you want to make a specific point. Make sure the clip keeping the tub/shower valve in place does not fall out when you remove the lid. A little clip keeps it in place. It will make putting everything back together much simpler if it remains on.
Dismantling the valve
Next, I took my channel locks and twisted them counter-clockwise on the huge bolt-like object. This spindle stem may be easily loosened with a little strain.
I removed the whole device from the housing once it was completely free. This is how it appears at the very end. Have you noticed the rubber washer? That should be flat, not grooved, as it is now.
For a Symmons TA-10 Temptrol shower valve, this is the stem cartridge spindle. I’ll add the component number to the list above since you’ll need one.
Shower/Tub Diverter Spindle Removal and Replacement
The valve that shifts the water flow from the tub to the shower and vise versa was the first thing I wanted to take care of. You have to detach the valve cover in order to do so. I required a highly unique tool to detach the lid. This tool was purchased at the same time as the other parts you required. You won’t be able to finish this job without this tool. You can’t do it. Raven R1241 Wrench For Symmons Tool, 1/4 Inch – 3/4 Inch is the name of the tool. I’ll add this to the list as well.
It’s known as the Raven E-Z 4 in 1 Wrench for Symmons and has the item number R1241. This is the first time we’ve used it. To remove this little cover, you will need the hex section of the wrench.
I observed this when I removed the hex screw: the Temptrol Diverter washer is made of metal. With a simple screwdriver, you effortlessly removed this washer. It simply jumps out at you.
After the washer was out of the way, I pulled the actual diverter out of its position with the screw end of the tool I just showed you above. This step requires you to spin the tool counter-clockwise while simultaneously pulling it out.
When I yanked on the tool, the diverter came straight out.
This is the second component you’ll need. A Symmons Diverter Spindle Kit is what it’s called. It includes a brand-new washer.
You may be wondering why you need to repair this valve when the drop you’re experiencing has nothing to do with it. I’m here to inform you that you should do a good job when you rebuild anything. You should replace anything that can be replaced. This valve, as well as the o-ring that goes with it, wears out with time. When these pieces wear down, water might flow in places it shouldn’t. When you turn on the shower, do you notice that water continues to flow from the tub faucet? You will very certainly continue to do so, but changing this valve will reduce the impact.
The old and new diverter spindles may be seen in the following shot. Examine the o-ring on the old one to see how flat it is.
I’ll need some plumbing grease to replace this spindle. I utilized Super Lube, which is ideal for this sort of application.
I put some of the lubricants on the regions of the spindle that would be in contact with the housing walls. In addition, I greased the o-ring. I pulled the diverter spindle back into its place after that was done.
The spindle in the shot above isn’t fully put in. I just wanted to point out that you should face the little gap in the spindle’s face upward. If you center the matching handle, it will be simpler to slip perfectly into position. Take a look at the first picture in this article if you’re not sure what I’m talking about. The bottom handle — the one that switches the water from the shower to the tub – is the one I’m referring to. Things will line up if you center this little spindle gap upward and then center that handle.
Valve Seat Removal and Replacement
After that, let’s have a peek inside the valve housing. These are the ones I prefer to take since those are the ones I am always on the lookout for. There has to be someone out there that enjoys this sort of thing as much as I do.
Two valve seats are located within this valve housing. Kissler 55-0004 Symmons Valve Seat is a kit that includes everything you need. Both the tiny and the huge ones are combined.
I had to utilize the huge square side of my new tool to replace these. I moved it back into the house until it wouldn’t go any further. Then I went in the opposite direction. I unscrewed the huge valve seat all the way and pulled it out after feeling it loosen.
Then I performed the same thing with the little square on the tool. Next, I took away the tiny seat. I compared parts after I had each of them out to make sure everything was in order.
Because the new valve seats were identical to the previous ones, I greased the inner and outer o-rings and threads before replacing the old ones with the new ones.
Replacing the Rubber Washer on the Spindle of the Stem Cartridge
I can’t change the stem cartridge spindle since I haven’t gotten it yet. I did, however, replace the original spindle’s little rubber washer. This is something I’m doing till I get the replacement component. When that happens, I’ll easily remove this spindle and replace a few more components. That will be the subject of a future piece. For the time being, I’ll include both the washer set and the new spindle part numbers in the list above. That should cover all of the components required for a fully functional bathtub and shower.
I simply unscrewed the screw at the rear of the spindle, removed the old rubber washer, replaced it with the new one, and put the new screw in place. Because the replacement screw came with some Loctite already applied to the threads, I decided to utilize it. I didn’t have to make use of any of my own.
Maybe you’re perplexed again. In this scenario, you may not want to replace the spindle. This spindle has another worn-out rubber washer. It’s the one creating the most drips. To replace the washer, a thin metal ring must be removed. This ring is difficult to remove without harming the spindle. Some have used a Dremel to do so. Since I was inside the shower valve, I figured I may as well replace everything. Trying to remove this ring with my channel locks would have destroyed the spindle metal if I had gone any farther. In this case, replacement is preferable to repair. I’ll repeat the component number. I reassembled the shower valve components once I was happy.
Troubleshooting Tips For A Groaning Bathtub or Basin Tap
A groaning sound can indicate several different problems with your tub or basin. If you hear a groaning sound when you turn off your bathtub or basin tap, there is air in your pipes, or simply water left inside that’s creating friction as it drains out. Close both taps and wait 15 minutes for any residual water to drain. Then test for moisture in any exposed pipes to ensure there is no water remaining within. When everything is dry, attach all connections tightly and re-attach tub spouts and showerheads with new rubber washers.
If your bathtub or basin tap groans when you turn it on, there could be an issue with faulty equipment. When you use your taps, they may groan as a result of faulty handles, corroded washers, and other issues. Check to make sure your fittings are all tight and that you don’t have any loose washers. You may also want to replace damaged spouts or showerheads, especially if water leaks out of them at any time. For example, some people choose brass showerheads for their durability compared to plastic ones. If everything else is fine but you’re still hearing a groaning sound from your tub or basin taps every time they’re turned on, it’s likely because air trapped in your pipes is being released as water passes thru them.
Performing a Final Check of the Leaky Symmons Shower Faucet
While it’s difficult to catch every leak in a shower, you can at least check for leaks before taking your next shower. To do so, fill your tub with about three inches of water. Then, turn on your shower for about ten minutes and make sure no water is leaking out of your faucet. If there are leaks, you’ll need to either replace parts or tighten screws—both of which should be relatively easy and inexpensive fixes. Another option is replacing your entire faucet with a newer model that doesn’t leak as easily.
Prevent future leaks with the Symmons Shower Faucet
If you can’t locate where your faucet leaks, check under each handle. If you spot water dripping, it means that one of the rubber seals has worn out and needs replacing. You can use silicone adhesive or plumber’s putty to seal around each handle. Remember, though, if you’re going for a permanent solution, don’t stop at tightening; loosen both screws completely and start anew with fresh silicone or plumber’s putty. This way, there will be no leaks down the road. It might seem like an extra step, but it will prevent future plumbing problems in your bathroom and save you money on plumbers’ bills in years to come!
If your faucet is still leaking, you’ll need to replace that gasket. You can find them at most hardware stores, and they are cheap and easy to install yourself. First, turn off your water supply; then remove both handles using pliers. Finally, remove all of your old silicone or plumber’s putty. Screw on your new gasket (after testing it for size), and then attach both handles back to their valves. Check for leaks one last time, before turning on your water supply again!
If you live in an older home with brass fixtures, replacing worn-out parts may be beyond your budget. However, there are still several things you can do to stop leaks from occurring.
Have you found your shower faucet in need of repair? It can be difficult to try to solve problems like these on your own. If your old shower faucet is leaking, it’s time for a replacement! Luckily, new tub and shower faucets are affordable and easy to install if you know what you’re doing. A replacement will also save you from having to buy parts every time it leaks. Whether your problem is with a tub or shower-valve model, I’ve got you covered with directions and videos for installation, maintenance, and removal no matter which makes or model you have. As long as there is water flowing thru it, there’s always an opportunity for problems if something isn’t working properly – especially if that something involves plumbing fixtures.
Please post any questions or concerns you have in the comments area below. Thank you for taking the time to read this!